In nearly a year of travel, I find I keep coming back and back to Albuquerque.
It seems like I’ve been there in every season at this point. And no, I didn’t attend the Balloon Festival (yet)– I’ve heard mixed reviews on it from other travelers, and encounters with hot air balloons can be had anywhere in the American Southwest. So that is NOT the reason I love Albuquerque.
One of the first draws I had to Albuquerque was Petroglyph National Monument, which is one of the more urban-located National Parks and Monuments. It really is about 15 minutes from the city center, and at first, just looks like a pile of blackened rocks.
It’s much more than that. Though, bringing binoculars into the park is a good idea, as lots of the petroglyphs are at a distance, and you don’t want to be “that guy” breaking the trail and walking over to touch the ancient carvings. (Don’t worry, there are better photos of the glyphs themselves as you scroll).
It is estimated there are 24,000 ancient scrawlings in the park– which is laid-out in four chunks, and covers about 17 miles total. You can visit any of the sections to see the drawings, which date back about 3,000 years.
Only a few points of trails get close to the glyphs, for good reason– plenty of people have inscribed their own graffiti over the years, and others have chipped away at the stones. It’s so open to the elements, that some have become faint over time– but the black nature of the rocks did help them to be more visible.
While some of the petroglyphs resemble recognizable figures like humans, birds, and eagles– not unlike other markings by ancient peoples, the exact interpretation of the symbols is the subject of speculation, as the meaning can’t be definitively pinpointed. These symbols are striking in their simplicity, but were likely able to communicate loads of information in the past.
The rangers at the station were clear– there might be no meaning at all, beyond the desire humans have to make art and capture the world around them somehow. There has also been speculation that the symbols were wayfinding messages to others, and these black volcanic rocks were a key passthrough of sorts. Still others interpret a religious meaning.
The glyphs themselves are the stars, but you won’t be disappointed with the desert landscape– the mountains that frame the Albuquerque valley are always in the distance, and when the desert plants are in-bloom, it’s a beautiful sight. The sage– THE SAGE– is plentiful, and provides a constant, pleasant undercurrent of scent to the hikes.
One of the most exciting things I found in Albuquerque was a popsicle business– specifically, a Paleta place. The Paleta Bar has multiple locations around the city– and trust me, I have been to several. First, you choose your bar flavor– everything from coconut to mango to chocolate to lime– and then, you dip it in fresh toppings. My two creations recently were a mango-lime bar rolled in Tajin, and a pistachio bar dipped in milk chocolate and topped with almonds.
The highest compliment I can pay a desert destination is to say “it wasn’t too sweet”– and Paleta Bar’s bar bases are flavorful, with just a touch of sweetness. Which means adding a dip or topping doesn’t take it over the top: it just compliments and completes the flavor. Everything at Paleta Bar is freshly-made, the dips are handmade and don’t taste a bit artificial. It’s the BEST.
That is hardly the only culinary gem in Albuquerque. Blackbird Coffee House, right off the main square in town, is fantastic– their housemade green chile and cheese quiche was honestly one of the best I’ve ever had. The crust was charred and home-baked, and the quiche was thick and super-satisfying (not a flimsy little hipster thing, but a real meal). I also always look out for the herbaceous sparkling waters from Bluefly farms when I am in the Southwest– they are in Santa Fe and Albuquerque– crisp and bitter, these are refreshing when it’s hot and dry (and it often is).
The charm of the Old Town area of Albuquerque is pretty undeniable– while it’s technically the tourist part of town, on weekdays and in the offseason, Old Town is a chill and friendly place to be.
The shopping in the Old Town area is extremely artisan in nature– which I loved. Handmade balms for the dry weather, handmade leather sandals and bags, and lots of local sauces for sale. There are tourist shops– especially right on the square itself, but just a block or two away, the local shops beckon.
The vegetarian options in Alburquerque are far more plentiful than Santa Fe– a vegetarian and Ayurvedic eatery named AnnaPurna offered excellent fresh-made tempeh wraps. And we got a tip to try Artichoke Cafe for very fresh upscale eats– and it absolutely lived up to the billing (and the heftier pricetag)– a local joint at heart, it’s a little fancy but still down-to-earth.
There is a brewery right above the square called Downshift, that it would be easy to miss from the ground. It’s ethos is all around slowing down for a chiller vibe. Lots of local clientele, pretty much all of whom came over to talk to Mac and me. There’s a warm and welcoming spirit in Albuquerque is that is so nice to come ‘home’ to temporarily when on the road.
I’d also recommend checking out the Nob Hill neighborhood. I don’t have a ton of photos, as I just was enjoying my stroll that day, but their independent theater is called The Guild, and they show independent movies every day and weekend– I loved the documentary I saw there, called 32 Sounds (you should definitely see it if it comes near you). The film was thought-provoking, and ear-provoking, in the best way possible. Every film in their upcoming catalogue looked fantastic.
One of Albuquerque’s best assets is its affordability relative to other cities in the area (looking at you, Santa Fe)– which means working artists and makers can still afford to pay rent and eat at restaurants, making the city alive with talented folks who are making their own version of art. The local burlesque troupe was holding The New Mexico Burlesque Festival the last time I was in town, which I was thrilled to attend.
The evening featured a mix of local performers and those from other cities around the country and world– including the reigning Mr. and Ms. Exotic World– which I did not realize was the title given to the best burlesque performer of the year in an annual competition. These performers were hyper-talented, and the Kimo theater– where it was held– was just beautifully designed.
The hiking in Albuquerque is different than hiking in the rest of the desert, because there’s actual treeline. Which means… SHADE! Hikes in the desert are generally without ample enough (or really, ANY) trees to keep the scorch of the sun off your back. Albuquerque has far, far more trees than most desert places– and their national forest can keep you in partial sun for most of your hike.
The South Padre Lisa Trail (pictures below), was only about 1300 gain and 4.4 total miles– a very manageable hike with a beautiful payoff. Be sure to go early, this trailhead parking lot gets packed (and for good reason).
And if you need a reason to visit during the spring season? The blossoms are just tremendous.
I’ll leave you with three random photos of Albuquerque– the first being one of my favorites I have ever taken. The last being a random sight that gave me a chuckle– walking in a park with Mac, near a playground, someone had left a red Solo cup out overnight in the rain. Ah, parents have a tough job.
When you are in the Southwest, don’t overlook Albuquerque. If you are don’t mind a city with some dirt under its proverbial nails, and some less-than-wealthy parts, and prefer what is interesting and varied over the pristine– it’s a great spot. After a half-dozen visits, I am still discovering new things about it — and plan to be back.
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